Learn more on Amalfi travel guide  by Giuseppe Longo
 

The seaside resort of Amalfi lies on the south coast of the Sorrento peninsula at the northern edge of the Gulf of Salerno, in the region of Campania 24 miles southeast of Naples. It lies at the mouth of a deep ravine, at the foot of Monte Cerreto (1,315 meters, 4,314 feet), surrounded by dramatic cliffs and coastal scenery. The largest and most popular resort on this mountainous stretch of coastline, Amalfi is a popular holiday base for tourists wanting to explore the area. The Republic of Amalfi was once a major seafaring power, and the town's traditions and historical buildings bear witness to Amalfi's glorious past.

Arrival 

Plane 

Naples Capodichino Airport offers connections to all Italian cities and major European destinations with traditional or low-cost airline companies. From the Arrival area of the Airport there is a daily bus service to Sorrento provided by Curreri, or there are two possibilities to get to the main train station in Naples: ANM bus 3S (30mins, every 15mins) to Piazza Garibaldi, or the Alibus airport bus (20mins, at least hourly) to Piazza Municipio. The nearest Intercontinental Airport is Rome's Fiumicino, with the possibility of getting to Naples by air besides the train.

Train 

The nearest train station to Amalfi is at Salerno, which is connected by many trains to all of Italy. From Salerno you may take a taxi, a SITA bus, or a ferry to Amalfi. Naples is next nearest station. From Naples you can take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento then take a SITA bus to Amalfi via Positano. For train times please consult the Trenitalia site.

Bus 

Bus from Rome: A bus company called Marozzi run a fast efficient coach service from Rome to Amalfi (summer season only) or to Sorrento (all year round). Rome-Amalfi bus service operated from 1st June to 30th September, every day except Sundays. The daily bus leaves Rome at 6am, and stops in Sorrento, Praiano and Amalfi, arriving in Amalfi at 10:30am.

A company called SITA runs blue buses along the coast, from Salerno to Amalfi, from Amalfi to Sorrento, and from Amalfi to Ravello. Other small buses provide transport within the towns.

Sea Ferries connect the principal towns of the Amalfi Coast area, and can be much quicker than buses. Travelmar run connections between Salerno, Minori, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento. In Salerno there is a tourist information office to your right as you leave the station; they can give you a timetable for the boats.

From Naples Beverello Wharf, the pier in front of Castel Nuovo, many hydrofoil and ferries depart for Sorrento; the hydrofoils (aliscafi) are twice as fast as the ferries and the service is usually more frequent in summer. From Beverello Wharf, during May to October, there are two daily runs to Amalfi with Metrò del Mare.

From Salerno there are regular connections operated by Coop to Amalfi and other coastal centers. Sant'Andrea, Metrò del Mare and Alicost. Salerno to Amalfi takes 35 minutes, and costs €4, with eight departures daily in each direction.

Car From Rome and from the north take the highway A1 and A30 up to Salerno, exit at Salerno Centro and continue on state highway 163 Costiera Amalfitana until destination. From Naples take instead highway A3 up to the exit at Vietri sul Mare and then continue on state highway 163 up to destination. Coming from the south, travel on A3, and exit at Salerno Centro and continue on state highway 163.

Transport Tickets for the local buses are available at tobacconists, newsagents and bars. Several rental companies hire out scooters and cars. Taxis are also available.

History and Culture 

According to legend Amalfi was founded by Constantine the Great, but Amalfi is first mentioned in the 6th century CE, and soon acquired importance as a maritime power, trading its grain, salt and slaves from the interior, and even timber, for the gold dinars minted in Egypt and Syria, in order to buy the silks of the Byzantine empire that it resold in the West. Merchants of Amalfi were using gold coins to purchase land in the 9th century, while most of Italy worked in a barter economy. Later, the whole coastline, along with Amalfi, became property of the Duchy of Naples, until 839, when the city declared its independence and became an autonomous republic.

During the Middle Ages it was an independent state with a population of some 70,000, ruled by self-appointed dukes who later became hereditary. In 1077 the town was incorporated by Robert Guiscard in the Norman kingdom; through its active trade with the Orient it rose to influence and wealth. As a sea power Amalfi came into conflict with Pisa and Genoa. Amalfi's code of maritime law (Tavole Amalfitane) prevailed throughout the whole of the Italian Mediterranean until 1570.

Soon, Amalfi's wealth not only attracted the attention of pirates, who were promptly driven back by the city's army, it also became the target of neighbouring states. In 1131, after a long succession of attacks, Amalfi was annexed to the Kingdom of Sicily, although still retaining a certain degree of autonomy in the management of maritime commercial affairs. Gradually, commercial relations with the East began to dwindle, checked by the policies of the Normans and Pisans, who landed on the coast in 1135, to plunder and destroy whatever they found there.

Over the following centuries, Amalfi's population dropped considerably, mainly due to the continuing attacks on the zone by pirates. In 1343 a large part of the lower town was destroyed by a tsunami, and its harbor is now of little importance. But the greatest disaster hit the region in 1643, when the plague took the lives of a third of the coastal population. One of the results of this tragedy was the progressive impoverishment of the area, aggravated by the interruption in maritime trade. The economy began to converge on the cultivation of olives, vines, and citrus fruits and on the crafts industry. Around the second half of the 19th century the Amalfi coast began its revival thanks to tourism, and artists such as Ibsen and Wagner drew inspiration from the region for some of their famous works, further fanning the curiosity of travellers to the coast.

Churches and Museums 

Duomo Sant'Andrea 

The Duomo Sant'Andrea at the center of the town, originally built in the ninth century to honour the St. Andrew the Apostle, was remodelled in Sicilian Lombard-Normanesque style in 1203; the campanile dates from 1180 to 1276. The magnificent portico, with pointed arches, was completely rebuilt in 1865. The front which was restored in 1890 is decorated with modern mosaic; the fine bronze door were the first in Italy, made from bronze brought back from Constantinople by a local nobleman, Pantaleone di Mauro Comite. Inside there are ancient columns of Paestum, supporting the choir. The crypt contains the remains of the Apostle St Andrew, brought here in the 13th century. To the left, in the portico, is the entrance to the cloister (Chiostro del Paradiso, 1266-68), which contains ancient sarcophagi, marble and mosaics.

Museo Civico 

From the harbor it is a short distance by way of Piazza Flavio Gioia to the Town Hall; the facade is decorated with modern mosaic. The municipal museum (Museo Civico) is housed in the Town Hall; its major attraction is the “Tavole amalfitane”, a medieval document with the maritime law of ancient times.

Paper Museum 

Housed inside an old paper mill, the museum exhibits ancient machinery for production of “Bambagina” paper, which is still in working order.

Ancient Armories of the Amalfi Republic 

Houses artifacts that witness the republic's glory as a maritime power.

Historical buildings and monuments 

Capuchin Monastery 

About 500m west of the cathedral, high above Amalfi (also reached by lift from the coast road), is the former Capuchin monastery (now a hotel) with a beautiful cloister and affording fine views.

Places of Interest 

Grotta dello Smeraldo 

There is an attractive trip by motorboat (15 minutes) to a stalactitic cave, the Grotta di Amalfi, also known as the Grotta dello Smeraldo or Grotta Verde, west of the Capo Conca. Emerald Cave became a marine cave as a result of changing ground levels due to the influence of vocanoes in the region. The water is so clear that it is possible to see through to the bottom (10m below), and is colored a beautiful emerald.

Events 

Wagner Music Festival - from June to September, Ravello 

This extraordinary musical festival dedicated to Richard Wagner first debuted in 1953, presenting a series of symphony and chamber concerts every year, along with opera, ballet, cinema and theater.

Festa di Sant’Andrea - November, January and June

Amalfi's patron saint is celebrated on two separate occasions: On November 30 (birthday celebration) a statue of the saint is taken from the Cathedral and carried in a procession through the streets and squares of the city. June 27 is the commemoration of the miracle that saved the city from the pirate Barbarossa (1544). The statue is carried to the sea, where a festival of music and fireworks awaits the procession.

Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics - May/June 

Every year in springtime, Amalfi celebrates her glorious past as a Maritime Republic with an Historical Regatta, including perfectly recreated period costumes and sea vessels, representing the four ancient Maritime Republics: Amalfi, Pisa, Genoa and Venice.

Bizantine New Year's Eve - 31 August 

New Year's Eve is celebrated the old bizantine way.
 
 

About the Author:

Giuseppe Longo