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How to do Berlin in 48
hours by Katy Hyslop
For two cities within a city
Berlin has so much culture, history and nightlife to experience 48 hours
hardly seems adequate. This guide will help to give you the most out of
it in a short space of time.
For close to 300 years Berlin
has been the centre point in almost every modern historical European conflict.
Unless you are familiar with the orchestrations of the Franco-Prussian
War, the establishment of the first German Empire, World War I, World War
II, the Cold War and the reunification, not to mention the figures behind
the events, the weight of the history alone can seem totally overwhelming.
Then there is the intensive
artistic side. Make your way through museums and galleries that display
ancient Persian works through to the avant garde collections of modern
artists. Travelling from one side of the city to the other takes you on
a journey through 20th Century politics, from fascism to communism to democracy.
It is recommended that to
be able to gain a full picture in an interesting and in depth way to take
a guided walking tour. There are several well respected and reputable companies
offering comprehensive walking tours that cover all aspects of the history
of Berlin. Some specialise in particular periods but a more generalised
overview is preferable. The knowledge of the guides helps to make the history
come alive in a way no guide book ever could.
To familiarise yourself with
the central layout you can cover the main interest sites by foot either
as part of a tour or on you own armed with a comprehensive guidebook, that
probably weighs as much as you do.
10:00
Few people realise that the
Cold War west Berlin was actually more of an island, east Berlin merely
surrounding it as the city itself lies in the eastern half of Germany.
'West' Berlin was connected by a transport corridor to the western half
of the country.
Start yourself off in the
centre of the 'capitalist west' with the sights and sounds of Zoo Station
(Bahnhof Zoo), made famous by the U2 song. This is the stop next to the
Zoologischer Garten, home of the city's zoo. The unique layout has the
animals hemmed in with moats rather than fences and some are even left
to roam free.
The area is also around the
corner from the Ku'Damm, the rather more expensive shopping district with
huge mall type department stores.
Next door is the Tiergarten,
the central green space of Berlin, where many of the city office workers
like to spend their lunchbreak on sunny days letting it all hang out, and
more often than not completely naked. You don't need to run for the nearest
cop shop as they are merely partaking in the 'frei korpo kultur' or free
body culture.
On the way through the Tiergarten
you may spy between the trees the rather impressive Seigessaule, a 70m
high golden statute. Some may recognise it as the statue that features
in the Wim Wenders film Wings of Desire, and also as the heady focal point
of the Love Parade. The column is decorated at the base by bronze reliefs
depicting the Prussian victories over Denmark, Austria and France, made
from melted down captured cannons.
Continuing eastwards down
Strasse des 17 Juni you will arrive in front of the Brandenburg Gate. This
has undergone extensive restoration recently returning it to its former
glory as a triumphal arch. This was the symbol of Berlin during the cold
war, sitting forlornly in no-mans land between the divisive walls. The
goddess Victory stands in her chariot drawn by four horses that look rather
like the ones seen in Paris atop the Arc du Triomphe du Carousel and in
Venice above the door of St Mark's Basilica.
12:00
The newly revamped Reichstag
is close by, the transparent dome arching above the debating chamber of
the German parliament. Entry is free and you can climb the spiral walkway
to the top of the dome for a view out over the city.
Further to the right of the
Brandenburg gate lies the completed Holocaust memorial. This outdoor site
covers 19,000 square metres and consists of 2,711 granite blocks of varying
height conceived by American architect Peter Eisenman. It has provoked
some controversy throughout its construction, not the least being how it
sits over part of the former Nazi HQ bunker complex.
Heading further into Berlin-Mitte
you will reach Checkpoint Charlie. Little remains of the original checkpoint,
the hut standing in the road is a replica. There were three checkpoints
between east and west, this was the only one with vehicle access.
13:00
The Checkpoint Charlie museum
is small and houses a collection of wall memorabilia as well as harrowing
recounts of survivors and non survivors attempts at crossing over. Across
the road is Café Adler, the old American CIA offices were upstairs
where agents would keep an eye on their Russian counterparts across the
way.
Berlin-Mitte is the cultural
centre where many of the city's important landmark buildings are located.
Opposite the Humboldt University on Unter den Linden is Bebelplatz where
the first Nazi book burning took place. The Staatsoper holds world class
recitals and performances lead by conductor Daniel Barenboim. With the
audience seats laid out in a circular shape around the orchestra pit every
seat is a good one.
Gendarmenmarkt is a square
surrounded by the cathedral Franzosischer Dom and its twin the Deutscher
Dom along with the rotund looking Konzerthaus.
Following the Unter den Linden
eastwards you will reach the island of museums or Museuminsel. The most
striking feature here is the Palace of the Republic, looking rather more
like a dairy factory it sits incongruously opposite the neo-Renaissance
Berliner Dom. For more aesthetically pleasing objects on the eye the world
class Pergamonmuseum is a far more attractive option.
14:00
It is worth it to spend a
few hours looking over the ancient artefacts from Persia, including Roman,
Greek, Islamic and Oriental classical works. Some of the more notable items
to see are the Ishtar Gate from Babylon, the Pergamon altar from Asia Minor
and the Market Gate from Greek Miletus.
18:00
Walking towards the west
you may have noticed a striking tall tower with a ball shape stuck on a
spike. This is the Ferhnsehturm TV tower, built by the communist east as
a signal to the west of their technological prowess during the Cold War.
As an example of tasteless communist era architecture is doesn't compare
but the view at the top is sensational. At least from inside you don't
have to look at it.
Down below on the other side
of the train station is Alexanderplatz, the centre of Berlin Mitte and
another shopping centre with Galeria Kauthof.
Evening
Berlin has a multitude of
international styles of food to choose from. From Indian, vegan, Asian,
Turkish through to the more traditional Bavarian styles loaded with bread
sausage and potatoes.
For later on it's a choice
of either the hard core or the soft option. Berlin's legendary nightlife
moves from the mainstream to the off the planet. Dance clubs cover house,
hip-hop, RnB, trance and techno. Old haunts include Tresor and WMF but
up and coming hot spots include Watergate, Icon and Delicous Doughnuts.
For the more laid back approach
there's the Red Rooster, the Oscar Wilde or the Haifisch bar. Plenty of
beers, cocktails and some less ear drum bursting sounds. You could always
try an evening with the Philharmonie at the Staatsoper, cheap performance
tickets for a great night out.
Or if you are feeling particularly
adventurous there is the Kit Kat club. The dress code is 'the lesser the
better' and as for the dance floor, well anything and everything goes and
usually does.
Anywhere around Oranienburgstrasse
in Mitte has loads of bars, clubs and local hangouts. One popular place
is Tacheles. A former department store it was bombed out during the war
and virtually left to disintegrate. Squatters moved in and over the years
it has transformed into an art forum as well as café and bar. For
a real sense of urban graffiti lifestyle and boho culture this is a great
place to begin an evening.
10:00
The morning offers a couple
of choices depending on preference. For the historical and art buffs the
museums have informative displays, either choosing the Museuminsel and
viewing the remaining museums or there is the German Russian Museum, where
the second World War met its end on the 8th May 1945. If the Cold War piques
your interest there is the Stasi Museum, which documents the intense scrutiny
of the general population by the Stasi, probably the most feared police
force of modern times.
For a combination of art,
history and archictecture there is the Berlinische Gallery, a real one
stop shop that displays Berlin's creative side from the past 120 years
with photos, models and paintings.
For those wishing to build
on their understanding of the Holocaust an S Bahn ride and a moderate walk
will get you to Sachsenhausen concentration camp at Oranienburg. This was
a 'model' camp built by the Nazis and opened in 1936. Over the next nine
years 220,000 men passed through the gates and around 100, 000 died there.
14:00
Time for a spot of shopping.
Potsdamerplatz has a special place in the Berlin skyline as the tidal wave
of building that began after the fall of the wall meant that most of this
are was filled with cranes. The architects went wild with excitement at
the opportunity to build some cutting edge sky scrapers filled with shopping
malls and of course the Sony Centre.
If you can stomach one more
museum there is the Filmmuseum located here that takes you behind the scenes
of many big name German films and their special effects.
Late afternoon
Head for Kreuzberg and alongside
Carl Herz Ufer you will find the Van Loon Barge where you can enjoy a hard
earned beer on the deck in the sun and watching it reflect off the water.
They also serve food here or you can check out some of the other tasty
eateries such as 'Hasir' for the best Turkish in town or 'Austria' for
the best Wiener schnitzel.
Evening
Staying in the Kreuzberg
area there are plenty of jazz bars chill out in for the remainder of the
night, including Yorkschlosschen and the Junction Bar. If your energy levels
haven't been entirely sapped there is the opportunity to take on a pub
crawl, mixing and mingling with fellow travellers as well as shots and
the various German beers.
So, after walking your feet
off, absorbing an incredible amount of history and sinking more than a
few 'wheat' beers you should find yourself with a greater understanding
of this amazing city. It should be an unforgettable 48 hours.
About the Author
Katy Hyslop has been wandering
around in the European Tourism industry for the past 6 years and is now
currently keeping the Plus Office in line. If you want to find out more
about opening times and entry fees in Berlin visit
this page.
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