I Recklessly Rate Panama's Tourism Destinations   by Casey Halloran
 

To set the record straight, there really aren’t any full-blown tourism destinations in Panama…yet.  But there are a some places worth seeing and others that claim to be. Panama is just starting to figure out what it takes to be a tourism destination and so many of these towns are similarly struggling to find their identity and how to properly introduce themselves to foreign visitors. That being said, the raw potential is incredibly exciting. Here’s my short list of places you might want to see…or should put off until your next trip.

Panama City – This is simply a fantastic city and definitely worth seeing. Do not confuse it for San Jose, Costa Rica or other Central American capital cities. Panama has history, culture, nightlife and a variety of sites to explore.

Rating: 9 of 10

Isla Grande – On the Caribbean coast about 2 hours from Panama City, this island offers excellent snorkeling and a laid back, Jamaica-style vibe. Less touristy than Bocas del Toro and far easier to access, I really don’t know why I don’t go more often. There is only one real hotel on the Island, Bananas Resort and the service is sub-par, but it’s worth it for the coral reef and tranquility. Along the drive there you can check out Portobelo, the fortified port town that Henry Morgan used to sack regularly. Neat! Two nights on the island should suffice.

Rating: 6.5 of 10

San Blas Islands – Probably the most unique destination in the country, this archipelago on the Caribbean coast is home to the Kuna Indians. This tribe lives life their own way and even has their own legal jurisdiction. It’s a water-world community where everyone travels by dugout canoe and small sailboat. The only hotels are solar powered, sparsely appointed, thatch roof huts. You’d better like seafood, because you’ll be feasting on lobster and crab several times a day. Cruising in motor powered canoes to deserted islands and unplugging from the world make this a very special place. However, it’s not paradise by any means. The Indians have killed off big sections of the coral and snorkeling is not so great. There are also over populated islands not worth visiting. But for the right kind of traveler, this is definitely a must see. Because only Kunas are permitted by law to own real estate there, it won’t be changing anytime soon. For those looking for more luxury, there’s a pioneer and former hotel owner in Costa Rica who has built the nearly impossible: over the water bungalows with A/C and Jacuzzi tubs. You can visit the San Blas islands from there and sleep in high style: www.corallodge.com.

Rating: 8.5 of 10

Contadora Island – One of the lovely Pearl Islands that was the set of CBS’ “Survivor” show on several occasions. Unfortunately, the two big hotels on this island reek of money laundering and are so bad, it’s enough to ruin your trip. Until a real hotel comes along, I say skip it.

Rating: 1 of 10

Pedasi/Playa Venado – About 4.5 hours from Panama City and 3 from David, this Pacific Coastal town has in my opinion, the best immediate tourism potential in Panama. Why? The ex-president is from this tiny pueblo and funneled plenty of funds its way to make it more accessible and charming. It is a proper village with a town square, tile roofed row houses and a cute little church. It also has an airport with regular flights from Panama City 3 times per week. Some big money projects are heading this direction and a small number of hotels for surfers and bigwig real estate investors make for a funky, interesting vibe in the town center. Good surfing, great sport fishing and reasonably priced real estate are what bringing folks to the area now.

Rating: 6.5 of 10 (but rising)

Santa Catalina – I haven’t been there yet but it looks to be a very cool spot. The only trouble is that getting there isn’t easy, but I guess that’s also a reason to visit. There are several small hotels there with stunning island views and secluded beaches.

Rating: N/A

Coiba Island – Aside from The Canal, the true national treasure of Panama is this former prison island and now protected region. It’s not easy to get there as the boat launches are about a good 45 minute steam to the island, but I’ve never head a single complaint. To make things even more interesting, former prisoners now serve as nature guides. Talk about a hidden gem!

Rating: 9.5 of 10

Boquete, Chiriqui – This is a high altitude town in the cool weather zone of Panama’s Chiriqui Province. Chiriqui is a totally different Panama. Where Panama City is Caribbean, hot and spicy, Boquete is more “campesino” (country folk), Central American and slower paced. The landscape looks like Switzerland and has attracted lots of foreign retirees due to the pleasant climate. There is whitewater rafting, trout fishing, hiking, biking and bird watching in this zone. I personally find it a little boring as I grew up in the mountains of Pennsylvania, but I understand why tourists like it. The cool weather is a nice contrast to steamy Panama City and I think rounds out a vacation nicely. You can also fly to nearby David, the capital of Chiriqui, on several flights a day. With so many expats and tourists making Boquete and nearby Volcan (so named for the active Baru Volcano) known, there are a growing number of tourism-related services appearing. Restaurants, travel operators, quality hotels are all happening here. I’m personally not a huge fan, but I totally understand the appeal and think it’s worth a look for most first timers.

Rating: 6 of 10

Anton Valley – In general, Panamanians don’t seem to care much for the beach. I understand why, given that Panama City is so darn hot. So Panama’s elite has for years made the Anton Valley, about 1.5 hours from the City, their weekend retreat. Cooler weather and a laid back country calm make this a nice and easy getaway from town. It’s also nearby the most popular Central Pacific beaches (see below) so it’s an easy one-two punch from the City. There are a few small hotels, B&Bs and restaurants. I get the feeling when I’m there that the social scene is primarily occurring in the weekend houses, not in the tourist spots. It can be a little slow for some folks, but it’s a nice retreat from the heate.

Rating: 6 of 10

Farallon/Santa Clara Beach – This area is on the Central Pacific coast about 1.5 hours from Panama. The first beach town you pass on the way is the development nightmare known as Coronado. My advice: keep driving. You’ll arrive to a less densely developed area called Farallon (for the lighthouse on the visible island offshore) or Santa Clara area. This is one of the few stretches of really nice white sand near Panama City. Right now only two major hotels, the Playa Blanca and the mega resort, Decameron, operate here. Why there aren’t more hotels is a mystery given the obvious tourism potential, but enjoy it before the beaches are crowded and beers are more than $.50. The negative: you pretty much have to stay at one of these hotels or rent a condo or house, which are both hard to come by. There’s only one good restaurant in the area, Los Camisones and virtually no nightlife outside of the resorts. Despite all that, it’s amazing this location exists and is still so relaxed given its proximity to the city.

Rating: 7.5 of 10

Gatun Lake – A neat area for nature lovers, you can see the Canal and hike some serious jungle trails. The one big hotel, Gamboa Resort is interesting but doesn’t quite fit the environment. It feels like a ski lodge stuck in the jungle. Regardless, it’s neat to stay right smack in the middle of the jungle under 40 minutes from the City and so close to the Canal. You can see boats passing through the lake. The Peacock Bass fishing here is unreal. One or two nights here will suffice.

Rating: 6 of 10

Bocas del Toro – One of the first destinations to really put Panama on the map, this chain of islands on the Caribbean cost bordering Costa Rica is accessible via flights from David and Panama City. A total Jamaican-Rasta atmosphere prevails here. Dozens of hotels from $20 to $200 a night cater to backpackers and more upscale travelers alike. Restaurants, bars and tour operators all make this one of Panama’s more developed tourism destinations. The downside: the local population offends some travelers as there is a good deal of poverty and corruption in the region. It’s also become a haven for foreign weirdos and scammers. Weather is probably the biggest challenge this area faces as it’s somewhat unpredictable and the dry season is short and sporadic. I personally don’t care much for it, but some tourists just love it. Physically, it’s certainly makes for great photos. Snorkeling here is among the best in Panama.

Rating: 5 of 10

In summary, Panama is still a budding tourism destination and each of these regions have a LONG way to go before they can become legitimate stops along the tourist trail. But the upside of the rough nature is that early travelers can feel like pioneers sent back to Costa Rica in the 70s or Hawaii in the 40s where you actually get to mingle with locals, buy food and drink at local prices and prance upon beaches that haven’t seen footprints in months…or even years!
 

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Casey Halloran has lived and worked in Costa Rica for nearly a decade and now resides in Panama. He operates a travel and real estate agency, www.panamarealestatepros.com